Buzz-y Beauty Ingredients That Are Worth The Hype — As Seen On “Great Day Houston!”

There’s always a new “it” ingredient in the beauty space  — whether it’s nutrient-dense superfoods like açai, matcha, chia seeds, quinoa, goji berry, and turmeric, or a more complex-sounding active such as ceramides, bakuchiol, retinol, nianicamide, or panthenol. With a never-ending parade of new ingredients that are touted as unmatched in their skin-brightening, pore-minimizing, moisture-locking, hair-strengthening, complexion-brightening abilities, attempting to decipher fact from fiction (or, at least, from hyperbolic marketing hype) can seem daunting. Luckily, as a bit of a science nerd, I’m here to take on the task of breaking down some of the most talked-about ingredients in the ever-expanding beauty world. In a recent appearance on “Great Day Houston,” I chatted about some of the most buzz-y ingredients right now and explained exactly why they earned their glowing reputation. You can watch the segment above or click here to watch it over at KHOU.com. And for a more in-depth exploration of these beauty ingredients, read on!

Before diving into today’s skincare ingredient lesson, here’s something interesting to note: while  specific superfoods (i.e. pomegranate, kale, avocado,  prickly pear, spirulina, and so on) dominated the beauty discourse over the last couple of years, in 2020 we saw a return to basics, with many brands focusing on how to incorporate tried-and-true ingredients into their formulas in order to make them as effective as possible. To that end, ingredients like retinol and vitamin C are on everyone’s lips — and, while these have long been used in beauty formulations, it’s how they’re being used that makes the newest beauty launches particularly exciting.

So, since we have to start by mastering the fundamentals, we should start our skincare schooling at the very beginning. Just like we start our schooling by learning our ABCs, our skincare education should begin with mastering our knowledge of vitamins A, B, and C. Ready? Let’s hit it!

BUZZ-Y INGREDIENT: Retinol (Vitamin A)

GREAT PRODUCT POWERED BY THIS INGREDIENT: StriVectin Super-C Retinol Brighten & Correct Vitamin C Serum

We’re kicking off this skincare lesson with retinol. Now, retinol belongs to a group of vitamin A derivatives known as retinoids. Other retinoids include retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, tazarotene and tretinoin. Retinol, however, is the strongest retinoid available in over-the-counter (by which I mean non-prescription) formulas, and it’s quite the multi-tasking ingredient, benefiting skin in a multitude of ways. Retinol works by activating the retinoid receptors in skin and, in turn, it helps to increase cellular turnover, stimulate collagen production, unclog and minimize pores, and brighten dark spots. Because of its many skin-transforming powers, retinol can be found in a wealth of anti-aging serums and moisturizers as well as in acne-fighting and pore-minimizing products.

And while retinol has been around for decades, it had fallen a bit out of favor with many consumers due to the fact that it often caused irritation, redness and even flakiness and peeling. But today’s retinol-packed products are in an entirely new league.  Thankfully, the newest wave of retinol-packed products contains great supporting actors – aka other ingredients — to help skin better tolerate retinol, so we can reap all the benefits without any discomfort.

A prime example of retinol being used in a refreshingly non-harsh but ultra-effective formula is the  Strivectin Super-C Retinol Brighten & Correct Vitamin C Serum ($72 at ULTA.com and StriVectin.com). This super-charged serum features retinol, along with Vitamin C, and acerola cherry, a superfruit loaded with vitamin C (to put it in perspective, acerola cherries about 50-100 times the vitamin C content of oranges). This non-greasy, fast-absorbing serum also incorporates StriVectin’s signature NIA-114 molecule, a patented form of Niacin (Vitamin B3) that strengthens the skin barrier and enhances the efficacy of other active ingredients. StriVectin discovered that NIA-114 also makes retinol more tolerable, decreasing any potential irritation and enhancing the ingredient’s performance.

This serum, then, helps to minimize fine lines, brighten skin tone, and improve skin’s texture without the side effects that often accompany retinol. But there’s another reason why this is a groundbreaking launch: see, this serum combines anti-aging powerhouse retinol and radiance-boosting vitamin C,  two ingredients rarely found in one formula. By combining two different, stabilized forms of vitamin C with retinol, StriVectin successfully accomplished this feat, so your skin can both tone up and glow up. You just have to shake the bottle well before using!

BUZZ-Y INGREDIENT: Niacinamide

GREAT PRODUCT POWERED BY THIS INGREDIENT: Olay Regenerist Ultra Rich Moisturizer

So now that we’ve talked Vitamin A, we can move on to Vitamin B — specifically vitamin B3, which is also known as Niacinamide. Yes, y’all, “niacinamide” may sound like a really complex ingredient, but it’s just good ol’ vitamin B3. Now, there are eight different B vitamins including vitamin B5, otherwise known as panthenol, which acts as a humectant in many a haircare and skincare produc. But vitamin B3, or niacinamide, has its own magical benefits. First, it helps to restore the skin’s lipid barrier so that it can better retain moisture. Second, it minimizes pores and helps balance oil production. And third, it helps to decrease hyperpigmentation and promoted a more even skin tone.

It’s one of the key ingredients in the new Olay Regenerist Ultra Rich Moisturizer ($39 at Olay.com and mass retailers). This luxurious-feeling moisturizer also contains peptides to improve skin’s smoothness and firmness, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, alongside skin-plumping hyaluronic acid. A special shea butter blend, meanwhile, helps to soften and moisturize skin while giving the Regenerist Ultra Rich Moisturizer a rich and creamy texture that feels indulgent and pampering.

BUZZ-Y INGREDIENTS: Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid

GREAT PRODUCT POWERED BY THESE INGREDIENTS: Phyto-C Hyper-C

Now that we’ve covered Vitamin A and Vitamin B3, we can mosey along — in our  Sesame Street style, of course! — to the next destination: Vitamin C.

Vitamin C is often used in products that promise to “brighten” or “even” skin tone, and with good reason: it inhibits melanin production in the skin, which helps to lighten instances of hyperpigmentation (brown spots), even out skin tone, and enhance the complexion’s luminosity. It also helps to repair sun damage by encouraging cellular turnover, which can also have the effect of brightening skin. And that’s not all. In addition to helping us tackle unseemly dark spots, vitamin C can actually help skin appear more youthful by promoting collagen production, which can lead to a thicker dermis (and hence less crepinesss and sagging), minimized fine lines and wrinkles, and more taut and lifted features. Moreover, Vitamin C is an antioxidant, so it protects skin cells from free radicals like UV rays, blue light, pollution, and more.

Phyto-C is the leader of Vitamin C skincare, developing the most advanced and effective natural skincare formulations using this powerhouse ingredient. The brand’s latest launch, the Phyto-C Hyper-C Serum ($70 at Phyto-C.com) successfully uses vitamin C to its full potential, incorporating a 20% concentration of L-ascorbic acid, the only form of Vitamin C clinically proven to be absorbed by skin. Moreover, this serum incorporates yet another potent ingredient: hyaluronic acid.

By now, you’ve probably heard of hyaluronic acid, a sugar molecule that naturally occurs in skin and helps to to bind water to collagen, helping skin appear bouncier, dewier, and more youthful. Like collagen and elastin, this sugar molecule gets depleted as we age, and so that requires us to incorporate hyaluronic acid through our skincare regimens.

Enter Phyto C’s Hyper-C, which features a groundbreaking H₂A₂ technology that produces the smallest molecular weight of hyaluronic acid. Think of H2A2 as a super-powered version of hyaluronic acid that penetrates the skin even quicker and helps it absorb other key ingredients, delivering faster visible results.

The Hyper-C serum then, helps to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, while also refining skin texture and giving a major dewiness boost by combining that 20% vitamin C with its H2A2 technology and with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid and lactic acid that stimulate cellular turnover and gently exfoliate skin.

BUZZ-Y INGREDIENTS: 24K Gold and Vegan Collagen

GREAT PRODUCT POWERED BY THESE INGREDIENTS: Physicians Formula The Gold Vault 24-Karat Gold Collagen Eyeshadow Palette

As it turns out, beauty  products infused with gold can, in fact, have the Midas touch: see, gold is a natural anti-inflammatory and can therefore soothe acne and hyperpigmentation, often resulting in a brighter complexion. As a leader in skin-loving makeup, Physicians Formula has crafted a stunning face palette that contains cosmetics infused with 24k gold:  the Physicians Formula The Gold Vault 24K Gold Collagen Face Palette ($17.99 at PhysiciansFormula.com and mass retailers), which contains a bronzer, a highlighter, eight glamorous eyeshadows, and a mascara.

Not only are these products infused with 24k gold, but they also contain vegan collagen, another ingredient that’s having a major moment. Collagen is normally found in animal tissue, bones, and cartilage (I know, gross!) so, in the past, collagen-packed beauty products contained animal byproducts. Luckily, scientists have discovered how to use plant-derived amino acids and assemble them in such a way as to mimic the molecular structure of collagen, and that’s what we know as vegan collagen. Thanks to these advances, we can now enjoy all the rejuvenating, skin-refining benefits of collagen while living a plant-based and cruelty-free lifestyle.

Talk about a palette that’s worth its weight in gold!

BUZZ-Y INGREDIENT: Peptides

GREAT PRODUCT POWERED BY THIS INGREDIENT: Neutrogena Healthy Lashes Lash Enhancer Serum

Next up in our ingredient lesson: peptides!

Peptides are simply amino acid chains, and they’re basically smaller versions of protein. Given that our hair is primarily comprised of protein, peptides are quite useful in helping to nourish and repair damage strands.

Our eyelashes are 90% protein, so if you’re lashes are looking brittle, sparse, or stubby, start looking for a lash-enhancing serum with a peptide-packed  formula like the Neutrogena Healthy Lashes Lash Enhancer Serum ($14.99 at retailers). The Healthy Lashes formula is infused with peptides and biotin to condition, nourish, and moisturize lashes, while stimulating growth.

And hey, as I told Cristina: life  s short but lashes don’t have to be!