All Gain and No Pain with the Ultra Gentle Dr. Jart+ Dermaclear Micro Milk Peel

I literally don’t want no scrubs — and I’m not using that expression as a euphemism for disrespectful, ambition-less, opportunistic men! The truth is, as many of you long-time readers know, there’s only a handful (if that!) of facial polishes that I can whole-heartedly applaud. I find that most mechanical exfoliants (by which I mean those face scrubs with walnut shell bits, apricot kernels, pumpkin seeds, or sugar particles) basically maul my face regardless of their price tag or the many allegedly soothing and nourishing botanical extracts in their respective formulas. Instead of harsh scrubs, I prefer chemical exfoliants, by which I’m referring to products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) that not only slough away dead surface skin cells, but which also unclog pores and stimulate cellular regeneration at a deeper level. But even within this category, it can be tough to find the right product, one that will remove those dead surface cells and reveal a brighter complexion with a smoother texture but which, simultaneously, won’t cause any irritation or dryness. Lately, I’ve been thrilled with a new generation of ultra-gentle facial peels that can be used on a daily basis, and which deliver the desired results without any adverse reactions (however short-lived those might be). I absolutely love the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Daily Peel, and I’m now swooning over the Dr. Jart+ Dermaclear Micro Milk Peel ($42 at Sephora stores and Sephora.com).

This innovative facial peel was modeled after dermatological milk peel procedures meant to address everything from acne to uneven skin tone, wrinkles and fine lines, and overall dullness. Typically, the milk peels performed at derm offices involve applying a formula that combines salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid to a cleansed complexion, waiting for 15-30 minutes while the ingredients works their magic, and then removing the peel to reveal a more radiant, smoother, clearer complexion. These peels, however, often need to be performed every two weeks for a total of four treatments, and each session is both time-consuming and pricey. Moreover, women with dry and sensitive skin can sometimes react adversely to the potency of these peels. The Dr. Jart+ Dermaclear Micro Milk Peel, then, allows you to complete a thorough and painless exfoliation from the comfort of your home — without the need for repeated trips to a dermatologist office or the risk of peel-related redness and irritation.

One of the more curious (and cutting-edge) ingredient in the formula is hydrogen mineral water. What in the world is that? Well, hydrogen water can be generated through a simple process of electrolysis. By passing an electrical current through H2O, the molecules are split into O2 and H2, hence separating the hydrogen and oxygen. Similarly, other scientists have placed magnesium sticks in drinking water to trigger a reaction that also isolates hydrogen molecules, resulting in hydrogen-rich water. Recent analyses of hydrogen-rich water suggest that the substance can can reduce oxidative stress (what happens when free radicals outnumber antioxidants and hence start to damage cell tissue). By neutralizing ROS (reactive oxygen species) that alter cellular DNA and damage cells, hydrogen works as a powerful antioxidant, defending skin against the main causes of skin aging.

The main exfoliating agents here are: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are found in the apple fruit water, bergamot fruit water, malic acid, and lactic acid in the formula; beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), which appear here in the form of salicylic acid; and poly hydroxy acids (PHAs), which is present here thanks to the lactobionic acid in the formula. Together, these acids work to unclog pores, remove dead surface skin cells and reveal a more radiant and supple layer of skin, and trigger cellular renewal and regeneration.

To counteract any potentially irritating effects of this peeling complex, the formula then incorporates coconut milk, which boasts soothing properties, and panthenol, a gentle moisturizer, as well as safflower oil, which helps the skin retain the moisture it needs, and sodium hyaluronate, one of the most powerful humectants in skincare. And to give the skin a radiance boost, the formula incorporates ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and the antioxidant known as glutiathione, which has long been used in skin brightening remedies.

Because this is a two-layered formula, to use the peel you first have to shake the bottle and mix all the liquid together. Next, you can reach for one of the cotton pads included and moisten it completely with the formula. Next, you simply smooth the cotton pad all over your face and let the formula sit for one minute. When the time is up, you rinse your face and pat it dry. You can then apply your serum and moisturizer as usual. How simple is that, right?

Now, you might think one minute sounds like too short of a time span for a product to actually take effect but, if you’ve tried enough peels, then you know that 60 seconds can feel interminable when you’re in agony over the tingling and burning sensations created by harsh ingredients. With this peel, however, I never experienced even the mildest bit of discomfort and the 60-second mark would fly by.

As for effectiveness, even though the peel stays on your face for just one minute, after using this product for a week, you’ll see an incredible difference in terms of smoothness, softness, and radiance. If you use it religiously for a month, you’ll be even more wowed. I literally used this product up to the very last drop, then started shaking the bottle like a crazy person in hopes there were still some beautifully milky droplets left in there!

When I first started using this peel back in late January, I really wanted to clear up an acne flare-up that was making me incredibly self-conscious. This peel not only helped to eradicate that pimple cluster on my chin, but it ensured no acne scars were left behind (which are a major concern since I’m so fair-skinned). Over time, I noticed the peel was also making my skin’s texture smoother and that it was helping to diminish the appearance of a dark spot under my left eye (one which I gripe over incessantly). All that without any pain? Sign me up, please!

This peel goes to show that we don’t actually have to suffer in the name of beauty. Who can’t applaud that notion?